La Moelle

La Moelle Waistcoat by BeckyinVT

What is Being Made

La Moelle is a fitted knitted waistcoat (vest) designed by independent designer BeckyinVT. This garment is a sleeveless layering piece available in nine sizes ranging from 28.5" to 60.5" bust circumference, making it suitable for a wide range of body types. The waistcoat features a tailored silhouette with a recommended negative ease of 0.5", meaning it should be knitted slightly smaller than your actual measurements for an elegant, close-fitting appearance. The length ranges from approximately 19.25" to 23.75" depending on size, creating a classic vest proportions that works well over long-sleeved shirts or as a standalone piece.

Techniques Used

This intermediate-level knitting project employs several key techniques common to fitted garment construction. The waistcoat is worked using circular needles in the round, which allows for seamless construction and even tension distribution. The pattern incorporates cable detailing as a design element, requiring knitters to work cable stitches that add visual interest and texture to the piece. Stitch markers are essential throughout the project, with the pattern calling for six total markers including one unique marker to denote the start of round and one dedicated marker for tracking the cable placement. The construction method uses both circular needles for the main body and straight needles, providing flexibility in how knitters approach the project based on their preference and experience level.

Stitches Used

The foundational stitch structure for La Moelle is stockinette stitch, which creates the smooth, classic knit fabric that forms the base of the waistcoat. Stockinette stitch is worked by knitting on right-side rows and purling on wrong-side rows when working flat, or by knitting every round when working in the round. The pattern also incorporates cable stitches as a featured design element, which involve crossing groups of stitches over each other to create twisted, rope-like textures. These cables add structural interest and a traditional knitwear aesthetic to the garment. The combination of stockinette and cable work creates contrast and visual depth in the finished piece.

Materials and Specifications

La Moelle is designed to be knitted with Bartlett Fisherman's 2-ply yarn, a 100% wool fiber that offers durability and traditional knitwear characteristics. The yarn provides 210 yards per 113-gram skein. Yardage requirements vary by size, ranging from approximately 370 yards for the smallest size up to 950 yards for the largest size, with most sizes requiring between 2 to 5 skeins of yarn. The recommended color shown in the pattern is heathered blue, though knitters may choose alternative colors from the Bartlett Fisherman's palette.

The pattern requires US9/13mm circular and straight needles as the primary needles, or whatever size is necessary to achieve the correct gauge. A secondary set of US8/11mm circular needles (one size smaller) is also needed for certain portions of the garment. The yarn weight is classified as aran, a medium-weight yarn that knits at a relatively quick pace while still allowing for detailed stitch definition. Working at a gauge of 14 stitches and 25 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch, knitters can expect a fabric with good drape and structure suitable for a fitted garment. Additional notions include a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and blocking the finished waistcoat.

Difficulty Level

Rated as an intermediate project, La Moelle is suitable for knitters with some experience beyond the absolute beginner level. The combination of in-the-round construction, cable work, and fitted garment shaping requires familiarity with techniques such as working with circular needles, reading stitch markers, and managing cable stitches. Knitters should be comfortable with gauge swatching and fitting adjustments before beginning this project.