Herrenweste in Schachenmayr Trachetenwolle - 5421 - Downloadable PDF

Herrenweste in Schachenmayr Trachtenwolle – Men's Traditional Knitted Waistcoat Pattern (Free Downloadable PDF)

This free downloadable PDF pattern from Schachenmayr provides full instructions for knitting a classic men's waistcoat (Herrenweste) in authentic Trachten style. Rooted in Central European folk costume tradition, this waistcoat is a timeless wardrobe piece that combines structured knitting techniques with traditional detailing, including a button band, integrated patch pockets, and a distinctive lapel collar. The pattern is sized for three men's sizes: 46/48, 50/52, and 54/56, making it suitable for a range of adult male figures.

Yarn and Materials

The pattern calls exclusively for Schachenmayr Trachtenwolle, a worsted-weight wool yarn perfectly suited to the structured stitch patterns used throughout this design. The specific colourways specified are:

• 600 g in Fb 00097 Kiesel meliert (a heathered pebble grey, used as the main colour)
• 100 g in Fb 00071 Loden (a deep traditional green, used as a contrast or accent colour)

In addition to yarn, the following notions and tools are required:

• Knitting needles sizes 4–4.5 mm
• Crochet hook size 3.5–4 mm (for finishing or edging details)
• 8 Trachten buttons, 35 mm diameter – these large, traditional-style buttons are an essential decorative and functional element of the authentic Trachten aesthetic

Construction and Design Overview

The waistcoat is worked flat in separate pieces — a back, left front, and right front — and then seamed together. Each piece begins with stitches cast on in Kiesel meliert and is worked upward following a combination of stitch patterns. The construction is fully shaped, with armhole shaping, shoulder shaping, and neckline shaping all worked by means of carefully sequenced cast-offs and decreases.

The pattern is written with three sizes clearly differentiated: instructions for size 46/48 appear before the first slash, size 50/52 between the slashes, and size 54/56 after the second slash. Where only a single figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

Stitch Patterns Used

Grundmuster (Main Pattern Stitch)

The body of the waistcoat is worked in a textured rib-based main pattern (Grundmuster) that creates visual interest while maintaining good structure and drape. The repeat is worked as follows: 1 stitch purl, 4 stitches knit, 1 stitch purl, repeated across the row. This six-stitch repeat produces a subtle vertical column effect that is characteristic of traditional Trachten knitwear.

Glatt Links (Reverse Stocking Stitch)

Certain sections of the waistcoat — notably the button band and the lapel collar — are worked in glatt links, which is reverse stocking stitch: knit stitches on wrong-side rows, purl stitches on right-side rows. This creates a smooth, slightly raised surface that contrasts neatly with the textured body fabric and gives the collar and band a clean, tailored finish.

Shaping Details

Armhole Shaping

Armhole shaping begins at 42.5 cm height (106 rows). On both sides, 5 stitches are cast off, followed by decreases every second row in the sequence: once 3 stitches, twice 2 stitches, and five times 1 stitch. This graduated decrease creates a smooth, rounded armhole appropriate for a set-in or shaped armhole finish.

Shoulder and Neckline Shaping

Shoulder shaping begins at heights of 64.5 / 66.5 / 68 cm (162 / 166 / 170 rows) respectively. Stitches are cast off on both sides — 8 /