Diagonal

Diagonal Top by Dieuwke Schack-Mulligen

What is Being Made

Diagonal is a knitted top designed by independent designer Dieuwke Schack-Mulligen. This intermediate-level garment is available in seven sizes ranging from XS to 3XL and is intended to be worn with approximately 4 inches (10 cm) of positive ease for a comfortable, relaxed fit. The top features a distinctive construction method that creates visual interest through strategic shaping and pleating.

Construction Technique

The Diagonal top employs an innovative flat-knitting construction method that begins with the back piece. Rather than using traditional top-down or bottom-up methods, this design starts with a small cast-on and builds outward. The garment is worked flat from back to front, with the neckline opening created by dividing the stitches into two separate portions that are then worked simultaneously. This simultaneous two-part construction allows for precise shaping around the neckline area while maintaining control over stitch placement.

A key design feature involves the incorporation of pleats on the left side of the body. Once the front pieces are completed, the sides are grafted together using the Kitchener stitch or similar grafting technique, which seamlessly joins the pieces while integrating these decorative pleats into the final garment structure. This construction method requires careful attention to stitch placement and increases and decreases that shape the neckline opening.

Stitches and Techniques Used

• Knit and purl stitches: The foundation of the fabric structure
• Yarn forward (yf) and yarn back (yb) techniques: Used in edge stitches for clean selvage edges, as indicated by slip stitches with yarn forward (slpwyf) and slip stitches with yarn back (slpwyb)
• Knit front and back (kfb): An increase technique used in the set-up rows to build the initial stitch count from the small cast-on
• Increases and decreases: Strategic shaping stitches incorporated throughout the pattern to create the neckline opening and overall silhouette
• Grafting: The Kitchener stitch or similar grafting method used to seamlessly join the side seams while incorporating the pleats
• Slip stitches: Used for creating neat edge stitches that facilitate grafting and provide clean selvage edges

Materials Required

Yarn: The Uncommon Thread BFLSock in light fingering or fingering weight. This yarn is composed of 437 yards per 100 grams. Yardage requirements vary by size: XS, S, M, L, and XL each require 2 skeins; 2XL requires 3 skeins; and 3XL requires 3 skeins. The designer notes that gauge may affect yarn requirements, so knitters should verify their yardage needs based on their individual gauge.

Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) needles in either straight or circular needle format. Circular needles are recommended for this project, though straight needles may be used since the top is worked flat.

Notions: Four to six locking stitch markers are required to track pattern sections and maintain stitch placement during the simultaneous two-part neckline construction.

Gauge Considerations

The designer's gauge for the first sample was 19.5 stitches and 29.5 rows over 4 inches (10 cm) on US 7 needles. However, the pattern notes that gauge is not crucial since the garment is worked by measurements rather than stitch counts. Knitters should be aware that their individual gauge may affect yarn requirements, making it advisable to calculate yardage needs based on their own tension before beginning the project.