Crosswise worked Jacket in Schachenmayr Universa - S6899 - Downloadable PDF

Crosswise Worked Jacket in Schachenmayr Universa

What Is Being Made

This is a knitted jacket constructed using a unique crosswise (horizontal) working method. Rather than knitting from bottom to top in the traditional manner, the back and front pieces are worked together in a single piece, beginning at the left front. This innovative construction technique creates a garment with distinctive directional stitch patterns that run horizontally across the body.

Construction Method

The jacket is engineered as an integrated unit where the back and front panels are knitted simultaneously in one continuous piece, starting from the left front edge. This crosswise approach allows the knitter to work all major sections—front panels and back—without requiring separate seaming of side seams, resulting in a more seamless garment structure.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns Used

This design incorporates multiple stitch techniques to create visual interest and texture:

• Garter Stitch (glatt rechts and glatt links variations) — smooth stockinette sections used for edge definition and contrast
• Ribbed Pattern (Rippenmuster) — elastic rib sections worked over 9 and 15 stitches, beginning with 3 purl stitches, providing structure and fit
• Cable Patterns — three distinct cable designs:
  • Cable A: 10 stitches wide, measuring 3.5 cm in width
  • Cable B: 20 stitches wide, measuring 6.5 cm in width
  • Cable C: 30 stitches wide, measuring 12 cm in width
• Large Seed Stitch (Großes Perlmuster) — textured pattern sections worked over 5 stitches, adding dimensional detail

Gauge and Sizing

The pattern is worked at a gauge of 22 stitches and 30 rows over 10 cm x 10 cm using the various stitch patterns indicated. This gauge measurement is essential for achieving proper fit and garment dimensions. The cable widths are precisely specified: Cable A measures 3.5 cm across 10 stitches, Cable B measures 6.5 cm across 20 stitches, and Cable C measures 12 cm across 30 stitches.

Materials and Tools

This pattern calls for Schachenmayr Universa yarn in a DK (double knit) weight, suitable for the stitch definition required by the cable and textured patterns. Knitting needles in size 31/2–4 (metric sizing) are used throughout the pattern to achieve the specified gauge. The yarn weight and needle size combination creates fabric with excellent stitch definition for showcasing the cable and pattern work.

Pattern Features

The jacket design emphasizes textural contrast through the strategic placement of cables, ribbing, seed stitch, and smooth stockinette sections. The crosswise construction method is a notable design feature that creates a unique garment with horizontal stitch direction. The pattern begins with 141 cast-on stitches and includes detailed stitch-by-stitch instructions for maintaining pattern continuity across the integrated front and back sections.