Balmoral - tartan detail cardigan

Balmoral Tartan Detail Cardigan by Judy Furlong

What is Being Made

The Balmoral is an elegant cardigan designed by Judy Furlong, inspired by the deceptively simple lines of classic Chanel jackets. This intermediate-level knitting project features a sophisticated combination of smooth stockinette stitch fabric with decorative tartan details. The cardigan is available in ten sizes to suit bust measurements from 82 cm (32 inches) to 128 cm (50 inches), with finished bust measurements ranging from 89.5 cm to 136.5 cm. The design includes shaping at the bust and waist using short row shaping techniques, though the front and back waist darts can be omitted if a more relaxed fit is preferred.

Techniques Used

This cardigan employs multiple advanced knitting techniques that combine to create its distinctive aesthetic. The main body sections are worked in stockinette stitch, which provides a smooth, classic canvas that showcases even, controlled knitting. Rib side panels add structure and visual interest to the garment's silhouette.

The tartan details are created using a combination of stranded work and bobbins, essentially blending intarsia and Fair Isle techniques. This hybrid approach requires knowledge of both colorwork methods: Fair Isle for the stranded sections where multiple colors are carried across rows, and intarsia for areas where bobbins are used to manage color changes without carrying yarn across large distances. The tartan patterning demands careful attention to color placement and tension management.

Shaping is achieved through short row shaping at the bust and waist, a technique that creates contoured fit without seaming. This method involves turning the work before completing a row and working back, gradually building up stitches to create curved shaping.

Stitches Used

• Stockinette Stitch (stst): The primary stitch for the main cardigan body, creating a smooth, flat fabric with a distinctive V-pattern appearance on the right side
• Ribbing: Used for the side panels to provide elasticity and vertical visual lines
• Stranded Colorwork: Applied in the tartan details, where multiple yarn colors are carried across the back of the work
• Intarsia: Employed in combination with stranded work for tartan sections, using bobbins to manage color changes

Materials

This pattern calls for 4-ply yarn weight, which is a lightweight, fine yarn that produces delicate, refined fabric suitable for the elegant Chanel-inspired design. The 4-ply weight allows for detailed colorwork in the tartan sections while maintaining good stitch definition. Appropriate knitting needles for 4-ply yarn are required, with specific needle size determined by the pattern's gauge requirements to ensure proper fit across the ten available sizes.

Design Details

Originally published in The Knitter, Issue 58 (May 2013), the Balmoral represents a thoughtful blend of classic tailoring and contemporary knitting techniques. The cardigan's design philosophy emphasizes the beauty of fundamental knitting skills—the main stockinette sections provide an excellent opportunity to demonstrate smooth, even tension and consistent stitch quality. Meanwhile, the tartan colorwork elements challenge intermediate knitters to master more complex techniques, making this an ideal project for those looking to expand their technical repertoire while creating a wearable, sophisticated garment.