Beaded counted stitching in miniature
Mill Hill kits look different from a standard cross stitch kit as soon as you open the box, because beads do much of the work that thread does elsewhere. A design will typically combine counted cross stitch in stranded cotton with glass seed beads attached individually, plus the occasional treasure — a small ceramic or metal embellishment that becomes the focal point of the piece. The result has depth and shine that flat stitching cannot achieve, and it photographs badly and looks wonderful in person, particularly on a tree with lights behind it.
What is in the box, and what is not
- Included: the chart, the fabric or perforated paper, the beads, the stranded cotton and a fine beading needle.
- Often included: a ceramic button or treasure where the design calls for one.
- Not included: hoop, scissors, backing card, ribbon for hanging and any glue for finishing.
- Worth having: a small bead dish, good light, and a magnifier if you are working on perforated paper.
Working with beads and perforated paper
Beads are attached with a half cross stitch, all slanting the same way, using a fine beading needle and either one strand of matching cotton or a beading thread. Keep the tension firm but not tight, or the bead will sit at an angle instead of standing up. Perforated paper is the other Mill Hill signature: it is stiff, holds a cut shape without fraying and needs no hoop, but it will crease permanently if bent and it does not forgive repeated unpicking, since the holes enlarge. Work on a flat surface, handle it by the edges, and think twice before you unpick a run of stitches.
Choosing a kit by ambition
The small ornament kits are genuinely quick: a manageable stitch count, a short colour list and a few dozen beads, finishable over a weekend. Larger framed designs from the range step up considerably in bead count and detail, and some include shaded areas where several cotton shades blend before the beading even begins. If you are new to beaded stitching, start small, learn how to keep the beads uniform, and then take on a bigger piece with confidence rather than abandoning one halfway.
Finishing ornaments neatly
Ornament kits are usually finished over card. Trim the perforated paper carefully with sharp scissors, leaving a single unstitched row as a margin, cut a piece of card just smaller than the finished shape, and glue or stitch the paper to it. A felt or card backing hides the reverse; a length of narrow ribbon or a twisted cord made from the project threads makes the hanging loop. On fabric-based kits, use thin wadding between the stitching and the card for a slightly padded finish, and lace the edges at the back rather than gluing.
Storage, gifting and looking after beaded work
Beaded pieces should never be pressed with an iron: heat can craze or distort glass beads and will flatten the stitching. If a fabric piece needs smoothing, press from the back around the beaded areas only. Store decorations flat in a box with acid-free tissue between layers rather than crushed together, since beads scratch each other. As gifts, these kits work in both directions — the finished ornament makes a lovely present, and the boxed kit itself is a good stocking filler for anyone who stitches.
Mill Hill kit questions
Are Mill Hill kits suitable for beginners? The small ornament designs are, provided you are happy working with a fine needle and good light. Larger detailed pieces are more demanding.
What is perforated paper? A stiff, pre-punched sheet used instead of aida. It needs no hoop and can be cut to shape, but it creases permanently.
Do the kits include a hoop or frame? No. Beads, threads, fabric or paper, needle and chart are supplied; framing and finishing materials are not.
How are the beads attached? With a half cross stitch through the bead, all slanting the same direction, using a fine beading needle.
Can I iron the finished piece? Not over the beads. Press only from the reverse, avoiding beaded areas entirely.
