German Knitting Patterns

Knitting from a German pattern

German knitting instructions are written in a slightly different order from British ones, but the knitting itself is identical. The pattern opens with Material (yarn and quantity), Nadelstärke (needle size), Maschenprobe (tension), and Größen (sizes), then works through the garment piece by piece. If you are used to British patterns, the main adjustments are vocabulary and the habit of giving sizes by chest measurement in centimetres, which is arguably clearer than a dress size anyway.

Vocabulary that unlocks most patterns

• Maschen (M): stitches. Reihen (R): rows.
• Rechte Masche: knit stitch. Linke Masche: purl stitch.
• Zunehmen: increase. Abnehmen: decrease.
• Maschenprobe: tension square, given as stitches and rows over 10cm.
• Glatt rechts: stocking stitch. Kraus rechts: garter stitch. Bündchenmuster: ribbing.
• Abketten: cast off. Anschlagen: cast on.

Learn those dozen words and most of a pattern becomes readable, because the numbers do the rest of the talking. Charts are international: a symbol chart for cables or lace needs only its key translating.

Sizes, tension and needle numbering

German patterns list sizes as finished or body measurements in centimetres, so measure a garment you already wear across the chest, double it, and match that number rather than converting to a UK size. Needle sizes are given in millimetres, which is the same system used on British ball bands, so no conversion is needed there. Tension is quoted as Maschen and Reihen over 10cm, exactly as in a British pattern. Knit the Maschenprobe properly and wash it as you intend to wash the garment; Continental designs are often written with a firm tension, and a loose knitter can gain several centimetres across a body without realising.

Yarn substitution across markets

Continental yarns are usually sold by weight in grams with the metreage on the band, and the pattern will state total metres or the number of balls of a specific yarn. Always substitute on metreage rather than ball count: 50g of a lofty wool and 50g of a dense cotton can differ by a hundred metres or more. Match the stated Maschenprobe first, fibre character second, and buy an extra ball if you are knitting a larger size or lengthening sleeves. Keep to one dye lot throughout.

Technique differences worth knowing

Continental knitting holds the yarn in the left hand and picks it with the needle rather than throwing it with the right. It is not required to work these patterns, but it is common among German knitters and is worth learning if you find your right wrist tiring, as it is efficient and quick for ribbing. German short rows appear frequently in Continental designs for shoulder shaping and sock heels: you turn the work, slip the stitch and pull the yarn firmly over the needle to make a double stitch, then work both legs together later. It is neat, quick and easier than wraps.

Finishing and aftercare

Block every piece before seaming. Wet blocking suits wool and gives the most reliable measurements; steam is better for anything with a high acrylic content. Seam with mattress stitch for invisible vertical joins, weave ends along the direction of the stitches, and wash by hand in lukewarm water unless the ball band says superwash. Dry flat, never hung.

German knitting pattern questions

Are these patterns in German only? Yes, this collection gathers the German-language editions. Many designs are also published in English elsewhere on the site.

Can I knit from one without speaking German? Largely yes, if you learn a dozen key words and rely on the charts and numbers.

Are the needle sizes different? No. German patterns use millimetres, the same as British ball bands.

How do I choose a size? Work from the centimetre chest measurement given, comparing it with a garment you already wear.