Viking of Norway Yarn

Nordic yarn, and what it is built for

Norwegian knitting has a particular look: high-contrast two-colour patterning across the yoke, a plain body, and a fabric dense enough to keep out weather. The yarns that support that tradition are usually wool or wool blends with enough grip to hold stranded floats in place, spun round rather than flat so the stitches sit plump and even. Viking of Norway's shade range reflects the same purpose, with strong primaries, clean whites and deep neutrals that hold their edges against each other in colourwork rather than blurring.

Choosing a weight for your project

• Fine wool for baby garments and lightweight colourwork, where softness next to the skin matters most.
• DK and aran weights for everyday jumpers, cardigans and hats that knit up at a comfortable pace.
• Chunkier blends for outerwear, slipper socks and quick winter accessories.
• Solid shades for the main body of a stranded design, since variegated yarns fight the motif.

Working stranded colourwork

Two-colour knitting is easier than it looks and depends on two habits. First, keep one colour consistently above the other throughout the project, because swapping the order changes which colour appears dominant and creates a visible line where you changed your mind. Second, spread the stitches on the right needle before carrying the float across the back; floats pulled tight are the reason so many yokes end up narrower than the body. Where a float would run more than about five stitches, catch it with the working yarn.

Tension, sizing and quantity

Stranded fabric knits tighter than plain stocking stitch, sometimes by a full stitch over 10cm, so swatch the colourwork section separately rather than assuming your plain tension applies. If you knit the swatch flat you will get a misleading result; work it in the round, or cut the floats and swatch as a tube. Buy the main colour to the metreage stated for your size, in a single dye lot, and remember that contrast shades usually need far less. One extra ball of the main colour is cheap insurance on a jumper.

Tools worth having

A set of circular needles in two lengths, one for the body and a shorter one or double-pointed needles for sleeves, covers most Nordic garments. Add stitch markers for yoke decreases, and a small pair of scissors for cutting steeks if you are working a cardigan the traditional way. Wooden or bamboo tips grip wool slightly better than metal, which helps when you are managing two strands at once.

Washing and wearing wool

Unless the ball band says superwash, treat these yarns as hand wash only. Lukewarm water, a wool-safe detergent, no agitation and no wringing; press the water out, roll in a towel and dry flat. Wool does not need washing often, and airing a jumper overnight solves most of what a wash would. Store folded in a closed drawer or box, ideally with cedar or lavender, and never on a hanger, which stretches the shoulders permanently.

Viking of Norway yarn questions

What is Viking of Norway yarn best for? Colourwork jumpers, hats and mittens, where its clear solid shades and woolly grip do their best work.

Is it machine washable? It depends on the specific yarn. Check the ball band for a superwash symbol before putting anything in the machine.

Can I substitute it into another pattern? Yes, provided you match the tension. Swatch in the stitch pattern the design uses and adjust needle size until the numbers agree.

Is it soft enough for babies? The finer baby-weight yarns in the range are made for exactly that; heavier wool blends are better as outerwear.

How much do I need for a jumper? Work from the yardage in your pattern for your size, buy one dye lot, and add a ball if you are lengthening sleeves. See more knitting patterns to plan your next project.