Aunt Lydia's Crochet Thread and Patterns

Thread sizes, and what they are for

Crochet thread numbering runs backwards from yarn: the bigger the number, the finer the thread. Size 10 is the everyday lace weight and the size most vintage doily and filet patterns assume. Size 3 is noticeably thicker, closer to a 4 ply yarn in the hand, and is what the wearable designs in this collection use — the Simple Summer Tee, the Capri Scarf, the Bridal Bouquet Wrap. Baker's Cotton sits in its own category, a matte cotton used here for coasters and pillow fronts where you want structure rather than drape. Iced Bamboo adds a subtle shimmer strand to the bamboo base.

Matching thread to project

• Classic Size 10 solids and natural — filet crochet runners, personalised name pieces, doilies, seasonal appliqués, doll clothes and fine edgings.
• Fashion Size 3 — summer tops, wraps and anything worn, where size 10 would take too long and hang too limply.
• Bamboo Size 3 and Size 10 — scarves, shawls, cardigans and lace toppers; bamboo drapes more fluidly than cotton.
• Iced Bamboo — occasion pieces, lace vests, bracelets and jewellery where a little sparkle is wanted.
• Baker's Cotton — coasters, cushion fronts and homeware that needs to sit flat and hold its shape.

Hooks and tension

Thread crochet uses steel hooks, sized in a separate numbering system where, again, higher numbers mean smaller hooks. Size 10 thread is typically worked on a 1.5mm to 1.75mm steel hook; size 3 on something nearer 2.5 to 3mm. The hook is small enough that the head shape matters — an inline head grips the thread more predictably than a very tapered one. Work in good light, and expect your first thread project to feel unreasonably tight for the first hour before your hands settle. If the fabric is stiff and your fingers ache, go up a hook size rather than trying to loosen your grip.

Filet crochet, briefly

Several patterns here are filet, including personalised runners built from an alphabet chart. Filet is a grid of open and filled squares made from trebles and chains, and it is far easier than it looks: you are only ever deciding whether the next square is solid or empty. The skill is in the counting. Mark every tenth square on the chart, count each row as you finish it, and check the edges are straight before moving on, because an error six rows back is a genuinely painful unpick in size 10 thread.

Blocking, which is not optional

An unblocked doily is a curled disc. Wash the finished piece in warm water with a little mild detergent, rinse, and pin it out damp on a blocking board, working from the centre outward and pinning every point of the outer edge. Traditional starching gives the crisp, sculptural finish associated with vintage lace and can be redone after each wash. Cotton thread pieces will take repeated washing for decades; store them flat with acid-free tissue rather than folded, since permanent creases form along fold lines in stiffened lace.

Aunt Lydia's thread questions

What size crochet thread should a beginner use? Size 3 is much easier to see and hold than size 10, so start there and move finer once you are comfortable.

What hook do I need for size 10 thread? A steel hook around 1.5mm to 1.75mm, though check the individual pattern's stated hook.

Is size 10 thicker than size 3? No — the numbering is inverted. Size 3 is the thicker of the two.

Do I have to starch my finished doily? No. Wet-blocking and pinning is enough for a flat, even finish; starch simply adds stiffness.

Can I make garments from crochet thread? Yes. The size 3 and bamboo patterns here include tees, cardigans, vests and wraps.